Posts with «arduino» label

An interactive coin jar saving for a good cause

At the end of May, Massimo Banzi and Giorgio Olivero (Todo) spent some days at the Copenhagen Institute of Interaction Design to teach a class called Connected Objects. The class goal was to envision, design and implement interactive objects that are open and connected, whose design and behaviour can be used to sense, read and affect the domestic landscape or other shared environments.

One of the team of students (Arun Mota, Hsiang-Lin Yang, Yashodeep Gholap) worked on Arduino Yún to create an energy redistribution service that allows people to save money and in parallel donate towards energy distribution projects in deprived areas of the world:

LightUp is an interactive fundraising coin jar that firstly encourages personal savings and then also allows people to contribute a part of their savings towards the cause. The system allows them to track in real-time exactly how many units of electricity they helped generate. Another visible reward is the jar lights up for 10 minutes each time they drop a coin.

To avail the service of LightUp, a user merely needs to register through an online platform. Every registered user is then provided with a physical jar to make savings on periodical basis. Users can save coins in these jars. Every time a coin is dropped in it, as a response the jar lights up for 10 minutes.

The drop of a coin each time also triggers a parallel transaction where a certain sum of money is transferred from the user’s account to LightUp’s Account. While registering, LightUp will also create a personal PayPal account for its users. This PayPal account is linked to the merchant PayPal account of LightUp. The user gets to decide the unit of money that can be debited each time while registering.

Every time users put coins in the LightUp jar, they will also receive immediate feedbacks such as SMS, email or facebook notification as per user’s preferences. These feedbacks will inform users on how their donation is being used for specific social projects and how they have helped make a real difference.

Arduino Blog 25 Jun 19:41

arduino arduino yún donations yún

Wireless Controlled Robotic Hand made with Arduino Lilypad

Gabri295 published on Instructable a tutorial for a project created during his last year of high school. It’s an artificial hand controlled by a glove with 5 flex sensors and Arduino Lilypad . The artificial hand reproduces the movements of the hand wearing the glove.

The components you need to control glove are:
• an elastic glove;
• Lilypad Arduino board (there are different versions, which usually only have 4 analog inputs, so pay attention and buy the one in the image);
• Shield to connect the Xbee module;
• 5 Flex sensors;
• 5 resistors: 47 K?;
• battery pack with 3×1.5 V batteries (Lilypad can be powered from 2.7 to 5.5 V, so 4.5 V it’s ok);
• LilyPad FTDI adapter (quite optional).

The materials needed for the robotic hand are:

• a steel structure for the palm of the hand and wood for the fingers;
• Arduino UNO board;
• 5 servomotors;
• to connect the servomotors I used the Robot_Shield from FuturaElettronica, which has also a switching regulator to power the entire circuit, but you can use any shield made for that;
• Shield to connect the XBee module (I made an horrible one, but it’s economic and I needed to make it small because of the size of the Robot_Shield, you can buy even XBee shields which have also pins to connect the servomotors);
• fishing wires;
• 9 V Battery.

Below you can take a look at the schematic and then follow the steps to make one yourself!

Arduino Blog 24 Jun 21:46

arduino hand instructables lilypad wireless

The 200 LED Ring Clock

There are LED clocks, and then there are LED clocks that can blind you from 30 paces. [Stiggalicious's] LED ring clock is of the latter variety. 200 WS2812B/Neopixel RGB LEDs drive the ring clock to pupil searing levels. The clock runs on ATMega1284P, with timekeeping handled by an NXP PCF8563 real-time clock chip. Code is written in Arduino’s wiring language using Adafruit’s Neopixel library.

Building the clock with a single Printed Circuit Board (PCB) would be both expensive and wasteful. [Stiggalicious] cleverly designed his clock to be built with 8 copies of the same PCB. Each board makes up a 45° pie slice of the ring. All 8 PCBs have footprints for the CPU, clock chip, and other various discrete parts, but only the “master” section has these parts populated. 7 “slave” sections simply pass clock, data, power and ground through each LED. He used Seeedstudio’s board service to get 10 copies of his PCB made, just in case there were any mistakes.

[Stiggalicious] rolled the dice by buying exactly the 200 LEDs he needed. Either he got really lucky, or the WS2812 quality testing has improved, because only one LED had a dead blue LED.

If you’d like to find out more, [Stiggalicious] gives plenty of details in his Reddit thread. He doesn’t have a webpage setup for the clock but he’s uploaded his source code (pastebin link) and Altium schematic/PCB files (mega.nz link). We may be a bit biased, but hackaday.io would be a perfect spot for this or any other project!

Filed under: clock hacks, led hacks

Hack a Day 24 Jun 12:00

arduino clock clock hacks led hacks rgb led ring clock ws2812

Monitoring glaciers at the Venice 14th International Architecture Exhibition

Glaciers are the largest moving objects on earth and the glacier on the Austria’s sixth highest summit called Simulaun is the protagonist of an installation awarded a Special Mention by the Jury of the 14th International Architecture Exhibition of La Biennale di Venezia.

On May 4th, 2014, the Italian Limes team installed a network of solar-powered GPS units on the surface of the Similaun glacier, following a 1-km-long section of the border between Italy and Austria, in order to monitor the movements of the ice sheet throughout the duration of the exhibition at the Corderie dell’Arsenale.

The geographic coordinates collected by the sensors are broadcasted and stored every hour on a remote server via a satellite connection. An automated drawing machine—controlled by an Arduino board and programmed with Processing—has been specifically designed to translated the coordinates received from the sensors into a real- time representation of the shifts in the border. The drawing machine operates automatically and can be activated on request by every visitor, who can collect a customized and unique map of the border between Italy and Austria, produced on the exact moment of his visit to the exhibition.

Italian Limes is a project by Folder (Marco Ferrari, Elisa Pasqual) with Pietro Leoni (interaction design), Delfino Sisto Legnani (photography), Dawid Górny, Alex Rothera, Angelo Semeraro (projection mapping), Alessandro Mason (production coordination), Claudia Mainardi.
Italian Limes has been supported by Fablab Torino, Favini, FaberSum, Intergrafica Verona, LAC–Litografia Artistica Cartografica.

Read the Press release >>

Arduino Blog 23 Jun 11:10

arduino glacier installation

Handheld Game System Powered by Arduino

These days, it’s easy enough to play games on the go. If you have a smart phone, you are pretty much set. That doesn’t mean you can’t still have fun designing and building your own portable gaming system, though.

[randrews] did just that. He started out by purchasing a small memory LCD display from Adafruit. The screen he chose is low power as far as screens go, so it would be a good fit for this project. After testing the screen with a quick demo program, it was time to start designing the circuit board.

[randrews] used Eagle to design the circuit. He hand routed all of the traces to avoid any weird issues that the auto router can sometimes cause. He made an efficient use of the space on the board by mounting the screen over top of the ATMega chip and the other supporting components. The screen is designed to plug in and out of the socket, this way it can be removed to get to the chip. [randrews] needs to be able to reach the chip in order to reprogram it for different games.

Once the board design was finished, [randrews] used his Shapeoko CNC mill to cut it out of a copper clad board. He warns that you need to be careful doing this, since breathing fiberglass dust is detrimental to living a long and healthy life. Once the board was milled out, [randrews] used a small Dremel drill press to drill all of the holes.

The final piece of the puzzle was to figure out the power situation. [randrews] designed a second smaller PCB for this. The power board holds two 3V coin cell batteries. The Arduino expects 5V, so [randrews] had to use a voltage regulator. This power board also contains the power switch for the whole system.

The power board was milled and populated. Then it was time to do some measurements. [randrews] measured the current draw and calculates that he should be able to get around 15 hours of play time using the two 3V coin cell batteries. Not bad considering the size.

[via Reddit]

Filed under: Arduino Hacks

Hack a Day 23 Jun 06:00

adafruit arduino arduino hacks atmega gaming lcd pcb portable shapeoko video games

433 MHz RF module with Arduino Tutorial 1

If you are looking for a way to communicate between Arduinos, but don't have much cash at your disposal, then look no further. These RF modules are not only affordable, but easy to use. They are much easier to set up than an XBee, plus you can use them without the need of a special shield. Before you rush out and buy a ton of these modules, make sure that you are not breaking any radio transmission laws in your country. Do your research, and buy them only if you are allowed to use them in your area. There are a few [OPTIONAL] libraries that can be used to help you and your particular project.

I will mention at this point however, that I did NOT use any libraries in this particular tutorial. That's right. I will show how easy it is to transmit data from one arduino to another using these RF modules WITHOUT libraries.

Also if you are looking for an easy way to record the signals and play them back without a computer - then jump to this tutorial.

Video

Project 1- RF Blink

Firstly we need to test if the RF modules are working. So we will design a very simple transmit and receive sketch to test their functionality. We will use the Arduino's onboard LED to show when the transmitter is transmitting, and when the other Arduino is receiving. There will be a slight delay between the two Arduinos. You can solder an antenna onto these modules, however I did not do this, I just kept the modules close together (1-2cm apart). I also found that I was getting better accuracy when I used 3V instead of 5V to power the receiver. While using 5V for VCC on the receiver, I would get a lot of interference, however with 3V, I hardly got any noise. If you find you are getting unpredictable results, I would suggest you switch to 3V on the receiver and move the transmitter and receiver modules right next to each other. Remember this is just a check... you can experiment with an antenna or a greater distance afterwards.

Here are the parts that you will need to carry out this project:

Parts Required

2 x Arduino UNO or compatible boards
Breadboard
Wires
RF Module (433 Mhz) - Transmitter and Receiver pair or the 315 Mhz version

The Transmitter and Receiver Fritzing Sketch

The Transmitter

	The transmitter has 3 pins,

Notice the pin called "ATAD". It took me a while to figure out what ATAD stood for, when I suddenly realised that this was just a word reversed. It should be DATA (not ATAD). Nevertheless, this is the pin responsible for transmitting the signal. We will make the Arduino's onboard LED illuminate when the transmitter pin is HIGH, and go off when LOW as described in the following table. And this is the Arduino Sketch to carry out the data transmission.

Arduino sketch - Transmitter

 /* 
  RF Blink - Transmit sketch 
     Written by ScottC 17 Jun 2014
     Arduino IDE version 1.0.5
     Website: http://arduinobasics.blogspot.com
     Transmitter: FS1000A/XY-FST
     Description: A simple sketch used to test RF transmission.          
 ------------------------------------------------------------- */

 #define rfTransmitPin 4  //RF Transmitter pin = digital pin 4
 #define ledPin 13        //Onboard LED = digital pin 13

 void setup(){
   pinMode(rfTransmitPin, OUTPUT);     
   pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);    
 }

 void loop(){
   for(int i=4000; i>5; i=i-(i/3)){
     digitalWrite(rfTransmitPin, HIGH);     //Transmit a HIGH signal
     digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);            //Turn the LED on
     delay(2000);                           //Wait for 1 second
     
     digitalWrite(rfTransmitPin,LOW);      //Transmit a LOW signal
     digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);            //Turn the LED off
     delay(i);                            //Variable delay
   }
 }

The Receiver

If all goes to plan, the onboard LED on this Arduino should light up (and go off) at the same time as the onboard LED on the transmitting Arduino. There is a chance that the receiver may pick up stray signals from other transmitting devices using that specific frequency. So you may need to play around with the threshold value to eliminate the "noise". But don't make it too big, or you will eliminate the signal in this experiment. You will also notice a small delay between the two Arduinos.

Arduino sketch - Receiver

 /* 
  RF Blink - Receiver sketch 
     Written by ScottC 17 Jun 2014
     Arduino IDE version 1.0.5
     Website: http://arduinobasics.blogspot.com
     Receiver: XY-MK-5V
     Description: A simple sketch used to test RF transmission/receiver.          
 ------------------------------------------------------------- */

 #define rfReceivePin A0  //RF Receiver pin = Analog pin 0
 #define ledPin 13        //Onboard LED = digital pin 13

 unsigned int data = 0;   // variable used to store received data
 const unsigned int upperThreshold = 70;  //upper threshold value
 const unsigned int lowerThreshold = 50;  //lower threshold value

 void setup(){
   pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
   Serial.begin(9600);
 }

 void loop(){
   data=analogRead(rfReceivePin);    //listen for data on Analog pin 0
   
    if(data>upperThreshold){
     digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);   //If a LOW signal is received, turn LED OFF
     Serial.println(data);
   }
   
   if(data<lowerThreshold){
     digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);   //If a HIGH signal is received, turn LED ON
     Serial.println(data);
   }
 }

When a HIGH signal is transmitted to the other Arduino. It will produce an AnalogRead = 0.
When a LOW signal is transmitted, it will produce an AnalogRead = 400.
This may vary depending on on your module, and voltage used.
The signals received can be viewed using the Serial Monitor, and can be copied into a spreadsheet to create a chart like this:

You will notice that the HIGH signal (H) is constant, whereas the LOW signal (L) is getting smaller with each cycle. I am not sure why the HIGH signal produces a Analog reading of "0". I would have thought it would have been the other way around. But you can see from the results that a HIGH signal produces a 0 result and a LOW signal produces a value of 400 (roughly).

Tutorial 2

In tutorial 2, we will receive and display a signal from a Mercator RF Remote Controller for Fan/Light.

Tutorial 3

In tutorial 3 - we use the signal acquired from tutorial 2, and transmit the signal to the fan/light to turn the light on and off.

Tutorial 4

In tutorial 4 - we use the information gathered in the first 3 tutorials and do away with the need for a computer. We will listen for a signal, store the signal, and then play it back by pressing a button. Similar to a universal remote ! No libraries, no sound cards, no computer. Just record signal and play it back. Awesome !!

If you like this page, please do me a favour and show your appreciation :

Visit my ArduinoBasics Google + page.
Follow me on Twitter by looking for ScottC @ArduinoBasics.
Have a look at my videos on my YouTube channel.

However, if you do not have a google profile...
Feel free to share this page with your friends in any way you see fit.

ScottC 23 Jun 05:47

433mhz arduino arduinobasics best arduino blog communication project rf serial tutorial

433 MHz RF module with Arduino Tutorial 1

There are 4 parts to this tutorial:

To get the most out of this tutorial - it is best to start at tutorial Part 1, and then progress to Part 2 then Part 3 and then do Part 4 last. Doing the RF tutorials in this order will help you to understand the process better.

If you are looking for a way to communicate between Arduinos, but don't have much cash at your disposal, then look no further. These RF modules are not only affordable, but easy to use. They are much easier to set up than an XBee, plus you can use them without the need of a special shield. Before you rush out and buy a ton of these modules, make sure that you are not breaking any radio transmission laws in your country. Do your research, and buy them only if you are allowed to use them in your area. There are a few [OPTIONAL] libraries that can be used to help you and your particular project.

I will mention at this point however, that I did NOT use any libraries in this particular tutorial. That's right. I will show how easy it is to transmit data from one arduino to another using these RF modules WITHOUT libraries.

Also if you are looking for an easy way to record the signals and play them back without a computer - then jump to this tutorial.