Posts with «tutorial» label

DIY Canon Intervalometer using Arduino



An intervalometer allows you to take photos at set intervals to view a slow process in super fast speed. Watching paint dry is just as boring in fast motion as it is at normal speed, however, when you point your camera to the clouds in the sky, you can get some amazing effects.
 
By taking a picture every 3 seconds, and then playing the sequence back at 30 frames a second, you will get to see a 10 minute event in just 7 seconds.To get a nice flowing motion picture, you need to get a good balance between the recording frame rate, and the play-back frame rate.
 


 
The recording frame rate is limited by the amount of memory you have in your camera, the length of the captured event, battery charge, and the camera's general capabilities. The playback frame rate needs to be fast enough to prevent jittering, but not so fast that you lose the event in a blink of an eye. The more you practice with different subject matters, the more you get a feel for how long you need to keep the camera running and how long to leave between shots.
 
When taking pictures of the clouds, you can generally use a 3-5 second frame rate, depending on their speed across the sky. To capture the flow of traffic, I would recommend a picture every 1-2 seconds. However, for really slow events like a plant growing, you may need to extend the frame capture rate significantly. You will get a better idea once you try it for yourself.
 
 

 
This tutorial follows on from the Arduino selfie tutorial, so you might notice some similarities. However, in this tutorial, we will have more control over the intervalometer by using a sliding potentiometer and an LED bar. The pin layout is slightly different from the Arduino Selfie tutorial - so best to start from scratch to avoid pin misconfigurations.
 

Warning : Any circuit you build for your camera (including this one) is at your own risk. I will not take responsibility for any damage caused to any of your equipment.
 
I found out that my Canon Powershot SX50 HS camera has a port on the side for a remote switch. In the "Optional Accessories" section of the camera brochure, it identifies the remote switch model as RS-60E3. I then looked up the model number on this website to find out the size of the jack (3 core, 2.5mm), and the pinout (Ground, focus and shutter) required to emulate the remote switch. Once I had this information, I was able to solder some really long wires to the jack and connect up the circuit (as described below).
 
I use Time-Lapse tool to stitch all of the pictures together to create a movie/animation.
 
You will need to download and install the LED_Bar library from Seeedstudio into your Arduino IDE libraries folder in order to use the LED Bar in this tutorial. For more information about the LED Bar - visit the LED Bar Seeed-Studio wiki.
 

Parts Required:





 

Fritzing Sketch


 

 

 

 


 
 

Connection Tables


 
Arduino to Relay Module:
 

 
 
Relay Module to Camera:
 

 
 
Arduino to Slide Potentiometer:
 

 
 
Arduino to LED Bar:
 


 
 

Arduino Sketch


  
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/* ===============================================================
      Project: DIY Canon Intervalometer using Arduino
       Author: Scott C
      Created: 9th October 2014
  Arduino IDE: 1.0.5
      Website: http://arduinobasics.blogspot.com/p/arduino-basics-projects-page.html
  Description: Use Arduino as an intervalometer for Canon PowerShot SX50 HS
               A slide potentiometer is used to control the time between photos.
               The LED Bar is used to display the delay between photos.
               A 3 core 2.5mm jack is used to connect the Arduino and Relay module to the Camera.
================================================================== */

 /* You will need to download and install the LED_Bar library from here: https://github.com/Seeed-Studio/Grove_LED_Bar */
 #include <LED_Bar.h>

 /* Connect 5V on Arduino to VCC on Relay Module
    Connect GND on Arduino to GND on Relay Module */

 #define CH1 7   // Connect Digital Pin 7 on Arduino to CH1 on Relay Module
 #define CH3 6   // Connect Digital Pin 6 on Arduino to CH3 on Relay Module
 
 int potPin=A0;    //Connect Slide potentiometer to Analog Pin 0 on Grove Base Shield
 int potValue=0;   //The variable used to hold the value of the potentiometer

 LED_Bar bar1(9,8); //Connect LED Bar to Digital I/O 8 on Grove base shield.
                   //The LED Bar actually uses digital pin 8 and 9.

 void setup(){  
   pinMode(CH1, OUTPUT);
   pinMode(CH3, OUTPUT);
   
   //Turn OFF any power to the Relay channels
   digitalWrite(CH1,LOW);
   digitalWrite(CH3,LOW);
   delay(2000); //Wait 2 seconds before starting sequence
   
   //Focus camera by switching Relay 1
   digitalWrite(CH1, HIGH);  
   delay(2000);
   digitalWrite(CH1, LOW);   //Stop focus
   delay(3000);
 }

 void loop(){
      // Read the slide potentiometer and convert the reading to a value between 0 and 10.  
      potValue=constrain(map(analogRead(potPin),0,1000,0,10),0,10);
      
      //Use the pot value to create a visual count-down display on the LED bar.
      for(int i = potValue; i>0; i--){
        bar1.setLevel(i);
        delay(1000);
      }
      
      //If the pot value is less than 1, then delay for 30 seconds.
      if(potValue<1){
        delay(30000);   
      }
      
      //Turn LED Bar off when taking photo
      bar1.setLevelReverse(0);
      
      //Press shutter button for 0.1 seconds. Modify delay if required.
      digitalWrite(CH3, HIGH);  
      delay(100);
      digitalWrite(CH3,LOW);    //Release shutter button      
 }


 


The Video


 



This project shows how to make your Canon Powershot SX50 HS a whole lot smarter using an Arduino. There are so many things that look so different with an intervalometer. While I connected a slide potentiometer to the Arduino to provide extra flexibility, and an LED Bar for visual feedback, there are many other sensors out there that can be combined with the camera. For example, you could use a PIR sensor to take a picture when movement is detected. Or take a picture when a laser trip-wire is broken. What about sound activation, light activation, leak detection.... the options are limitless.
 
This has been one of my favorite projects, it was a lot of fun, and very interesting.
I highly recommend that you try it out!



If you like this page, please do me a favour and show your appreciation :

 
 
Visit my ArduinoBasics Google + page.
Follow me on Twitter by looking for ScottC @ArduinoBasics.
Have a look at my videos on my YouTube channel.


 
 

 
 
 


However, if you do not have a google profile...
Feel free to share this page with your friends in any way you see fit.
ScottC 09 Oct 16:07
2.5mm  5v relay  arduino  arduinobasics  best arduino blog  canon  intervalometer  led bar  photography  powershot  project  slide potentiometer  sx50 hs  time lapse  time-lapse  tutorial  

Tutorial – PCF8574 backpacks for LCD modules and Arduino

Learn how to use inexpensive serial backpacks with character LCD modules with your Arduino. This is chapter fifty-eight of our huge Arduino tutorial series.

Introduction

Using LCD modules with your Arduino is popular, however the amount of wiring requires time and patience to wire it up correctly – and also uses a lot of digital output pins. That’s why we love these serial backpack modules – they’re fitted to the back of your LCD module and allows connection to your Arduino (or other development board) with only four wires – power, GND, data and clock.

You can use this with LCD modules that have a HD44780-compatible interface with various screen sizes. For example a 16 x 2 module:

The backpack can also be used with 20 x 4 LCDs. The key is that your LCD must have the interface pads in a single row of sixteen, so it matches the pins on the backpack – for example:

Hardware Setup

Now let’s get started. First you need to solder the backpack to your LCD module. While your soldering iron is warming up, check that the backpack pins are straight and fit in the LCD module, for example:

Then solder in the first pin, while keeping the backpack flush with the LCD:

If it’s a bit crooked, you can reheat the solder and straighten it up again. Once you’re satisfied with the alignment, solder in the rest of the pins:

Now to keep things neat, trim off the excess header pins:

Once you’ve finished trimming the header pins, get four male to female jumper wires and connect the LCD module to your Arduino as shown in the following image and table. Then connect your Arduino to the computer via USB:

Software Setup

The next step is to download and install the Arduino I2C LCD library for use with the backpack. First of all, rename the “LiquidCrystal” library folder in your Arduino libraries folder. We do this just to keep it as a backup.

If you’re not sure where your library folder can be found – it’s usually in your sketchbook folder, whose location can usually be found in the Arduino IDE preferences menu:

Next, visit https://bitbucket.org/fmalpartida/new-liquidcrysta… and download the latest file, currently we’re using v1.2.1. Expanding the downloaded .zip file will reveal a new “LiquidCrystal” folder – copy this into your Arduino libraries folder.

Now restart the Arduino IDE if it was already running – or open it now. To test the module we have a demonstration sketch prepared, simply copy and upload the following sketch:

/* Demonstration sketch for PCF8574T I2C LCD Backpack 
Uses library from https://bitbucket.org/fmalpartida/new-liquidcrystal/downloads GNU General Public License, version 3 (GPL-3.0) */
#include <Wire.h>
#include <LCD.h>
#include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h>

LiquidCrystal_I2C	lcd(0x27,2,1,0,4,5,6,7); // 0x27 is the I2C bus address for an unmodified backpack

void setup()
{
  // activate LCD module
  lcd.begin (16,2); // for 16 x 2 LCD module
  lcd.setBacklightPin(3,POSITIVE);
  lcd.setBacklight(HIGH);
}

void loop()
{
  lcd.home (); // set cursor to 0,0
  lcd.print(" tronixlabs.com"); 
  lcd.setCursor (0,1);        // go to start of 2nd line
  lcd.print(millis());
  delay(1000);
  lcd.setBacklight(LOW);      // Backlight off
  delay(250);
  lcd.setBacklight(HIGH);     // Backlight on
  delay(1000);
}

After a few moments the LCD will be initialised and start to display our URL and the value for millis, then blink the backlight off and on – for example:

If the text isn’t clear, or you just see white blocks – try adjusting the contrast using the potentiometer on the back of the module.

How to control the backpack in your sketch

As opposed to using the LCD module without the backpack, there’s a few extra lines of code to include in your sketches. To review these, open the example sketch mentioned earlier.

You will need the libraries as shown in lines 3, 4 and 5 – and initialise the module as shown in line 7. Note that the default I2C bus address is 0x27 – and the first parameter in the LiquidCrystal_I2C function.

Finally the three lines used in void setup() are also required to initialise the LCD. If you’re using a 20×4 LCD module, change the parameters in the lcd.begin() function.

From this point you can use all the standard LiquidCrystal functions such as lcd.setCursor() to move the cursor and lcd.write() to display text or variables as normal. The backlight can also be turned on and off with lcd.setBacklight(HIGH) or lcd.setBacklight(LOW).

You can permanently turn off the backlight by removing the physical jumper on the back of the module.

Changing the I2C bus address

If you want to use more than one module, or have another device on the I2C bus with address 0x27 then you’ll need to change the address used on the module. There are eight options to choose from, and these are selected by soldering over one or more of the following spots:

There are eight possible combinations, and these are described in Table 4 of the PCF8574 data sheet which can be downloaded from the NXP website. If you’re unsure about the bus address used by the module, simply connect it to your Arduino as described earlier and run the I2C scanner sketch from the Arduino playground.

We hope you enjoyed this tutorial and you can make use of it. Finally, if you enjoyed this tutorial, or want to introduce someone else to the interesting world of Arduino – check out my book (now in a fourth printing!) “Arduino Workshop”.

Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitter, Google+, subscribe  for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our forum – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website.
Tronixstuff 24 Sep 12:57
arduino  backpack  lcd  pcf8574  tronixlabs  tronixstuff  tutorial  

Tutorial – PCF8574 backpacks for LCD modules and Arduino

Learn how to use inexpensive serial backpacks with character LCD modules with your Arduino. This is chapter fifty-eight of our huge Arduino tutorial series.

Introduction

Using LCD modules with your Arduino is popular, however the amount of wiring requires time and patience to wire it up correctly – and also uses a lot of digital output pins. That’s why we love these serial backpack modules – they’re fitted to the back of your LCD module and allows connection to your Arduino (or other development board) with only four wires – power, GND, data and clock.

You can use this with LCD modules that have a HD44780-compatible interface with various screen sizes. For example a 16 x 2 module:

The backpack can also be used with 20 x 4 LCDs. The key is that your LCD must have the interface pads in a single row of sixteen, so it matches the pins on the backpack – for example:

Hardware Setup

Now let’s get started. First you need to solder the backpack to your LCD module. While your soldering iron is warming up, check that the backpack pins are straight and fit in the LCD module, for example:

Then solder in the first pin, while keeping the backpack flush with the LCD:

If it’s a bit crooked, you can reheat the solder and straighten it up again. Once you’re satisfied with the alignment, solder in the rest of the pins:

Now to keep things neat, trim off the excess header pins:

Once you’ve finished trimming the header pins, get four male to female jumper wires and connect the LCD module to your Arduino as shown in the following image and table. Then connect your Arduino to the computer via USB:

Software Setup

The next step is to download and install the Arduino I2C LCD library for use with the backpack. First of all, rename the “LiquidCrystal” library folder in your Arduino libraries folder. We do this just to keep it as a backup.

If you’re not sure where your library folder can be found – it’s usually in your sketchbook folder, whose location can usually be found in the Arduino IDE preferences menu:

Next, visit https://bitbucket.org/fmalpartida/new-liquidcrysta… and download the latest file, currently we’re using v1.2.1. Expanding the downloaded .zip file will reveal a new “LiquidCrystal” folder – copy this into your Arduino libraries folder.

Now restart the Arduino IDE if it was already running – or open it now. To test the module we have a demonstration sketch prepared, simply copy and upload the following sketch:

/* Demonstration sketch for PCF8574T I2C LCD Backpack 
Uses library from https://bitbucket.org/fmalpartida/new-liquidcrystal/downloads GNU General Public License, version 3 (GPL-3.0) */
#include <Wire.h>
#include <LCD.h>
#include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h>

LiquidCrystal_I2C	lcd(0x27,2,1,0,4,5,6,7); // 0x27 is the I2C bus address for an unmodified backpack

void setup()
{
  // activate LCD module
  lcd.begin (16,2); // for 16 x 2 LCD module
  lcd.setBacklightPin(3,POSITIVE);
  lcd.setBacklight(HIGH);
}

void loop()
{
  lcd.home (); // set cursor to 0,0
  lcd.print(" tronixlabs.com"); 
  lcd.setCursor (0,1);        // go to start of 2nd line
  lcd.print(millis());
  delay(1000);
  lcd.setBacklight(LOW);      // Backlight off
  delay(250);
  lcd.setBacklight(HIGH);     // Backlight on
  delay(1000);
}

After a few moments the LCD will be initialised and start to display our URL and the value for millis, then blink the backlight off and on – for example:

If the text isn’t clear, or you just see white blocks – try adjusting the contrast using the potentiometer on the back of the module.

How to control the backpack in your sketch

As opposed to using the LCD module without the backpack, there’s a few extra lines of code to include in your sketches. To review these, open the example sketch mentioned earlier.

You will need the libraries as shown in lines 3, 4 and 5 – and initialise the module as shown in line 7. Note that the default I2C bus address is 0x27 – and the first parameter in the LiquidCrystal_I2C function.

Finally the three lines used in void setup() are also required to initialise the LCD. If you’re using a 20×4 LCD module, change the parameters in the lcd.begin() function.

From this point you can use all the standard LiquidCrystal functions such as lcd.setCursor() to move the cursor and lcd.write() to display text or variables as normal. The backlight can also be turned on and off with lcd.setBacklight(HIGH) or lcd.setBacklight(LOW).

You can permanently turn off the backlight by removing the physical jumper on the back of the module.

Changing the I2C bus address

If you want to use more than one module, or have another device on the I2C bus with address 0x27 then you’ll need to change the address used on the module. There are eight options to choose from, and these are selected by soldering over one or more of the following spots:

There are eight possible combinations, and these are described in Table 4 of the PCF8574 data sheet which can be downloaded from the NXP website. If you’re unsure about the bus address used by the module, simply connect it to your Arduino as described earlier and run the I2C scanner sketch from the Arduino playground.

We hope you enjoyed this tutorial and you can make use of it. Finally, if you enjoyed this tutorial, or want to introduce someone else to the interesting world of Arduino – check out my book (now in a fourth printing!) “Arduino Workshop”.

Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitter, Google+, subscribe  for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our forum – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website.

The post Tutorial – PCF8574 backpacks for LCD modules and Arduino appeared first on tronixstuff.

Tronixstuff 24 Sep 12:57
arduino  backpack  lcd  pcf8574  tronixlabs  tronixstuff  tutorial  

How to Fix Your Broken MicroView

The response by GeekAmmo and Sparkfun to the MicroView problem has been amazing, but you can fix your broken one fairly simply if you're prepared to crack the case.

Read more on MAKE

MAKE » Arduino 21 Aug 16:20
arduino  arduinoisp  avr  bootloader  crowdfunding  geekammo  microview  problem  sparkfun  tutorial  workthrough  

Grove Water Sensor


Connecting a water sensor to an Arduino is a great way to detect a leak, spill, flood, rain etc. It can be used to detect the presence, level, volume and/or the absence of water. While this could be used to remind you to water your plants, there is a better Grove sensor for that. The sensor has an array of exposed traces which will read LOW when water is detected. In this tutorial, we will connect the Water Sensor to Digital Pin 8 on the Arduino, and will enlist the very handy Grove Piezo buzzer and an LED to help identify when the Water sensor comes into contact with a source of water.


 

Parts Required:

Putting it together


If you have a Grove Base Shield, you just have to connect the Grove Water Sensor to D8 on the shield, and the Buzzer to D12 on the Shield. My Grove base shield obstructs the onboard LED, so I will attach an LED to Digital pin 13. If you do not have a Grove base shield, then you should connect the Sensors as described in the tables below:
 


 

Arduino Sketch


  
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/* 
  Grove Water Sensor sketch 
     Written by ScottC 5th August 2014
     Arduino IDE version 1.0.5
     Website: http://arduinobasics.blogspot.com
     Description: Use Grove Water Sensor to detect leaks, floods, spills, rain etc.
     Credits: This sketch was inspired by this website:
              http://www.seeedstudio.com/wiki/Grove_-_Water_Sensor     
 ------------------------------------------------------------- */
#define Grove_Water_Sensor 8     //Attach Water sensor to Arduino Digital Pin 8
#define Grove_Piezo_Buzzer 12    //Attach Piezo Buzzer to Arduino Digital Pin 12
#define LED 13                   //Attach an LED to Digital Pin 13 (or use onboard LED)
void setup(){
 pinMode(Grove_Water_Sensor, INPUT);     //The Water Sensor is an Input
 pinMode(Grove_Piezo_Buzzer, OUTPUT);    //The Piezo Buzzer is an Output
        pinMode(LED, OUTPUT);                   //The LED is an Output
}

void loop(){
        /* The water sensor will switch LOW when water is detected.
           Get the Arduino to illuminate the LED and activate the buzzer
           when water is detected, and switch both off when no water is present */
 if(digitalRead(Grove_Water_Sensor) == LOW){
                digitalWrite(LED,HIGH);
  digitalWrite(Grove_Piezo_Buzzer, HIGH);
                delay(2);
                digitalWrite(Grove_Piezo_Buzzer, LOW);
                delay(40);
        }else{
                digitalWrite(Grove_Piezo_Buzzer, LOW);
                digitalWrite(LED,LOW);
        }
}


 

The Video


 


If you liked this tutorial - please show your support :

ScottC 05 Aug 16:38
arduinobasics  best arduino blog  buzzer  easy  grove  piezo  project  sensor  tutorial  water  

433 MHz RF module with Arduino Tutorial 3



 
There are 4 parts to this tutorial:
To get the most out of this tutorial - it is best to start at tutorial Part 1, and then progress to Part 2 then Part 3 and then do Part 4 last. Doing the RF tutorials in this order will help you to understand the process better.

Project 3: RF Remote Control Emulation

In the first tutorial, I introduced the 433 MHz Transmitter and Receiver with a simple sketch to test their functionality. In the second tutorial, the 433MHz receiver was used to receive a signal from an RF remote. The RF remote signal was coded based on the pattern and length of its HIGH and LOW signals. The signals received by the remote can be described by the code below:

 
Code comparison table



The RF remote that I am using transmits the same signal 6 times in a row. The signal to turn the light on is different from that used to turn the light off. In tutorial 2, we were able to "listen to" or receive the signal from the RF remote using the RF receiver. I thought it would be possible to just play back the signal received on the Arduino's analogPin, but the time it takes to perform a digital write is different to the time it takes to do an AnalogRead. Therefore it won't work. You need to slow down the digitalWrite speed.
I would like to find out if it is possible to apply this delay to all 433 MHz signal projects, however, I only have one 433 MHz remote.

If the delay in your project is the same as mine (or different) I would be keen to know - please leave a comment at the end of the tutorial.

We are going to use trial and error to find the optimal digitalWrite delay time. We will do this by slowly incrementing the delay until the transmission is successful. The transmission is considered successful if the fan-light turns on/off. All we have to do is count the number of transmissions until it is successful, then we should be able to calculate the delay.

 

Parts Required




 

The Transmitter Fritzing Sketch



 
 

RF Calibration - Arduino Sketch


I used an array to hold the RF code for light ON and light OFF. Each number within the code represents a specific sequence of HIGH and LOW lengths. For example, 2 represents a SHORT HIGH and a LONG LOW combination. A short length = 3, a long length = 7, and a very long length = 92. You need to multiply this by the timeDelay variable to identify how much time to transmit the HIGH and LOW signals for.
The short and long lengths were identified from the experiments performed in tutorial 2 (using the RF receiver). Each code is transmitted 6 times. The LED is turned on at the beginning of each transmission, and then turned off at the end of the transmission. The timeDelay variable starts at 5 microseconds, and is incremented by 10 microseconds with every transmission.
In the video, you will notice that there is some flexibility in the timeDelay value. The Mercator Fan/Light will turn on and off when the timeDelay variable is anywhere between 75 and 135 microseconds in length. It also seems to transmit successfully when the timeDelay variable is 175 microseconds.
So in theory, if we want to transmit a signal to the fan/light, we should be able to use any value between 75 and 135, however in future projects, I think I will use a value of 105, which is right about the middle of the range.


Video




  Now that I have the timeDelay variable, I should be able to simplify the steps required to replicate a remote control RF signal. Maybe there is room for one more tutorial on this topic :)

Update: Here it is - tutorial 4
Where you can record and playback an RF signal (without using your computer).


ScottC 19 Jul 19:30
433mhz  arduino  arduinobasics  best arduino blog  fan  light  mercator  project  remote  rf  transmitter  tutorial  

433 MHz RF module with Arduino Tutorial 3



 

Project 3: RF Remote Control Emulation

In the first tutorial, I introduced the 433 MHz Transmitter and Receiver with a simple sketch to test their functionality. In the second tutorial, the 433MHz receiver was used to receive a signal from an RF remote. The RF remote signal was coded based on the pattern and length of its HIGH and LOW signals. The signals received by the remote can be described by the code below:

 
Code comparison table



The RF remote that I am using transmits the same signal 6 times in a row. The signal to turn the light on is different from that used to turn the light off. In tutorial 2, we were able to "listen to" or receive the signal from the RF remote using the RF receiver. I thought it would be possible to just play back the signal received on the Arduino's analogPin, but the time it takes to perform a digital write is different to the time it takes to do an AnalogRead. Therefore it won't work. You need to slow down the digitalWrite speed.
I would like to find out if it is possible to apply this delay to all 433 MHz signal projects, however, I only have one 433 MHz remote.

If the delay in your project is the same as mine (or different) I would be keen to know - please leave a comment at the end of the tutorial.

We are going to use trial and error to find the optimal digitalWrite delay time. We will do this by slowly incrementing the delay until the transmission is successful. The transmission is considered successful if the fan-light turns on/off. All we have to do is count the number of transmissions until it is successful, then we should be able to calculate the delay.

 

Parts Required




 

The Transmitter Fritzing Sketch



 
 

RF Calibration - Arduino Sketch

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/* 
  Transmit sketch - RF Calibration
     Written by ScottC 17 July 2014
     Arduino IDE version 1.0.5
     Website: http://arduinobasics.blogspot.com
     Transmitter: FS1000A/XY-FST
     Description: A simple sketch used to calibrate RF transmission.          
 ------------------------------------------------------------- */

 #define rfTransmitPin 4  //RF Transmitter pin = digital pin 4
 #define ledPin 13        //Onboard LED = digital pin 13
 
 const int codeSize = 25;      //The size of the code to transmit
 int codeToTransmit[codeSize]; //The array used to hold the RF code
 int lightON[]={2,2,2,2,1,4,4,4,4,5,1,4,4,4,4,4,4,5,2,2,1,4,4,4,6}; //The RF code that will turn the light ON
 int lightOFF[]={2,2,2,2,1,4,4,4,4,5,1,4,4,4,4,4,4,5,2,2,2,2,2,2,3}; //The RF code that will turn the light OFF
 int codeToggler = 0;  //Used to switch between turning the light ON and OFF
 int timeDelay=5;      // The variable used to calibrate the RF signal lengths.

 
 
 void setup(){
   Serial.begin(9600);        // Turn the Serial Protocol ON
   pinMode(rfTransmitPin, OUTPUT);   //Transmit pin is an output  
   pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);          
  
 //LED initialisation sequence - gives us some time to get ready
  digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); 
  delay(3000);
  digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); 
  delay(1000);
 }
 
 
 
  void loop(){
    toggleCode();    // switch between light ON and light OFF
    transmitCode();  // transmit the code to RF receiver on the Fan/Light
    
    timeDelay+=10;    //Increment the timeDelay by 10 microseconds with every transmission
    delay(2000);      //Each transmission will be about 2 seconds apart.
  }
  
  
  
  
  /*---------------------------------------------------------------- 
     toggleCode(): This is used to toggle the code for turning 
                   the light ON and OFF 
  -----------------------------------------------------------------*/
  void toggleCode(){
    if(codeToggler){
       for(int i = 0; i<codeSize; i++){
         codeToTransmit[i]=lightON[i];
       } 
      
    } else{
      for(int i = 0; i<codeSize; i++){
         codeToTransmit[i]=lightOFF[i];
       } 
    }
    codeToggler=!codeToggler;
  }
   
   
   
   
  /*-----------------------------------------------------------------
    transmitCode(): Used to transmit the signal to the RF receiver on
                    the fan/light. There are 6 different HIGH-LOW signal combinations. 
                    
                    SH = short high   or  LH = long high   
                                     PLUS
         SL = short low    or    LL = long low    or    VLL = very long low
                    
  -------------------------------------------------------------------*/
   void transmitCode(){
    // The LED will be turned on to create a visual signal transmission indicator.
    digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
   
   //initialise the variables 
    int highLength = 0;
    int lowLength = 0;
    
    //The signal is transmitted 6 times in succession - this may vary with your remote.       
    for(int j = 0; j<6; j++){
      for(int i = 0; i<codeSize; i++){ 
        switch(codeToTransmit[i]){
          case 1: // SH + SL
            highLength=3;
            lowLength=3;
          break;
          case 2: // SH + LL
            highLength=3;
            lowLength=7;
          break;
          case 3: // SH + VLL
            highLength=3;
            lowLength=92;
          break;
          case 4: // LH + SL
            highLength=7;
            lowLength=3;
          break;
          case 5: // LH + LL
            highLength=7;
            lowLength=7;
          break;
          case 6: // LH + VLL
            highLength=7;
            lowLength=92;
          break;
        }
           
         /* Transmit a HIGH signal - the duration of transmission will be determined 
            by the highLength and timeDelay variables */
         digitalWrite(rfTransmitPin, HIGH);     
         delayMicroseconds(highLength*timeDelay); 
         
         /* Transmit a LOW signal - the duration of transmission will be determined 
            by the lowLength and timeDelay variables */
         digitalWrite(rfTransmitPin,LOW);     
         delayMicroseconds(lowLength*timeDelay);  
      }
    }
    //Turn the LED off after the code has been transmitted.
    digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); 
 }
I used an array to hold the RF code for light ON and light OFF. Each number within the code represents a specific sequence of HIGH and LOW lengths. For example, 2 represents a SHORT HIGH and a LONG LOW combination. A short length = 3, a long length = 7, and a very long length = 92. You need to multiply this by the timeDelay variable to identify how much time to transmit the HIGH and LOW signals for.
The short and long lengths were identified from the experiments performed in tutorial 2 (using the RF receiver). Each code is transmitted 6 times. The LED is turned on at the beginning of each transmission, and then turned off at the end of the transmission. The timeDelay variable starts at 5 microseconds, and is incremented by 10 microseconds with every transmission.
In the video, you will notice that there is some flexibility in the timeDelay value. The Mercator Fan/Light will turn on and off when the timeDelay variable is anywhere between 75 and 135 microseconds in length. It also seems to transmit successfully when the timeDelay variable is 175 microseconds.
So in theory, if we want to transmit a signal to the fan/light, we should be able to use any value between 75 and 135, however in future projects, I think I will use a value of 105, which is right about the middle of the range.


Video




  Now that I have the timeDelay variable, I should be able to simplify the steps required to replicate a remote control RF signal. Maybe there is room for one more tutorial on this topic :)

Update: Here it is - tutorial 4
Where you can record and playback an RF signal (without using your computer).
 


ScottC 19 Jul 19:30
433mhz  arduino  arduinobasics  best arduino blog  fan  light  mercator  project  remote  rf  transmitter  tutorial  

433 MHz RF module with Arduino Tutorial 1




If you are looking for a way to communicate between Arduinos, but don't have much cash at your disposal, then look no further. These RF modules are not only affordable, but easy to use. They are much easier to set up than an XBee, plus you can use them without the need of a special shield. Before you rush out and buy a ton of these modules, make sure that you are not breaking any radio transmission laws in your country. Do your research, and buy them only if you are allowed to use them in your area. There are a few [OPTIONAL] libraries that can be used to help you and your particular project.


I will mention at this point however, that I did NOT use any libraries in this particular tutorial. That's right. I will show how easy it is to transmit data from one arduino to another using these RF modules WITHOUT libraries.

Also if you are looking for an easy way to record the signals and play them back without a computer - then jump to this tutorial.

Video





Project 1- RF Blink


Firstly we need to test if the RF modules are working. So we will design a very simple transmit and receive sketch to test their functionality. We will use the Arduino's onboard LED to show when the transmitter is transmitting, and when the other Arduino is receiving. There will be a slight delay between the two Arduinos. You can solder an antenna onto these modules, however I did not do this, I just kept the modules close together (1-2cm apart). I also found that I was getting better accuracy when I used 3V instead of 5V to power the receiver. While using 5V for VCC on the receiver, I would get a lot of interference, however with 3V, I hardly got any noise. If you find you are getting unpredictable results, I would suggest you switch to 3V on the receiver and move the transmitter and receiver modules right next to each other. Remember this is just a check... you can experiment with an antenna or a greater distance afterwards.

Here are the parts that you will need to carry out this project:
 

Parts Required



 

The Transmitter and Receiver Fritzing Sketch






The Transmitter

The transmitter has 3 pins,
Notice the pin called "ATAD". It took me a while to figure out what ATAD stood for, when I suddenly realised that this was just a word reversed. It should be DATA (not ATAD). Nevertheless, this is the pin responsible for transmitting the signal. We will make the Arduino's onboard LED illuminate when the transmitter pin is HIGH, and go off when LOW as described in the following table.

 

And this is the Arduino Sketch to carry out the data transmission.

Arduino sketch - Transmitter

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 /* 
  RF Blink - Transmit sketch 
     Written by ScottC 17 Jun 2014
     Arduino IDE version 1.0.5
     Website: http://arduinobasics.blogspot.com
     Transmitter: FS1000A/XY-FST
     Description: A simple sketch used to test RF transmission.          
 ------------------------------------------------------------- */

 #define rfTransmitPin 4  //RF Transmitter pin = digital pin 4
 #define ledPin 13        //Onboard LED = digital pin 13

 void setup(){
   pinMode(rfTransmitPin, OUTPUT);     
   pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);    
 }

 void loop(){
   for(int i=4000; i>5; i=i-(i/3)){
     digitalWrite(rfTransmitPin, HIGH);     //Transmit a HIGH signal
     digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);            //Turn the LED on
     delay(2000);                           //Wait for 1 second
     
     digitalWrite(rfTransmitPin,LOW);      //Transmit a LOW signal
     digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);            //Turn the LED off
     delay(i);                            //Variable delay
   }
 }




 

The Receiver



If all goes to plan, the onboard LED on this Arduino should light up (and go off) at the same time as the onboard LED on the transmitting Arduino. There is a chance that the receiver may pick up stray signals from other transmitting devices using that specific frequency. So you may need to play around with the threshold value to eliminate the "noise". But don't make it too big, or you will eliminate the signal in this experiment. You will also notice a small delay between the two Arduinos.


 

Arduino sketch - Receiver

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 /* 
  RF Blink - Receiver sketch 
     Written by ScottC 17 Jun 2014
     Arduino IDE version 1.0.5
     Website: http://arduinobasics.blogspot.com
     Receiver: XY-MK-5V
     Description: A simple sketch used to test RF transmission/receiver.          
 ------------------------------------------------------------- */

 #define rfReceivePin A0  //RF Receiver pin = Analog pin 0
 #define ledPin 13        //Onboard LED = digital pin 13

 unsigned int data = 0;   // variable used to store received data
 const unsigned int upperThreshold = 70;  //upper threshold value
 const unsigned int lowerThreshold = 50;  //lower threshold value

 void setup(){
   pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
   Serial.begin(9600);
 }

 void loop(){
   data=analogRead(rfReceivePin);    //listen for data on Analog pin 0
   
    if(data>upperThreshold){
     digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);   //If a LOW signal is received, turn LED OFF
     Serial.println(data);
   }
   
   if(data<lowerThreshold){
     digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);   //If a HIGH signal is received, turn LED ON
     Serial.println(data);
   }
 }



When a HIGH signal is transmitted to the other Arduino. It will produce an AnalogRead = 0.
When a LOW signal is transmitted, it will produce an AnalogRead = 400.
This may vary depending on on your module, and voltage used.
The signals received can be viewed using the Serial Monitor, and can be copied into a spreadsheet to create a chart like this:




You will notice that the HIGH signal (H) is constant, whereas the LOW signal (L) is getting smaller with each cycle. I am not sure why the HIGH signal produces a Analog reading of "0". I would have thought it would have been the other way around. But you can see from the results that a HIGH signal produces a 0 result and a LOW signal produces a value of 400 (roughly).





Tutorial 2

In tutorial 2, we will receive and display a signal from a Mercator RF Remote Controller for Fan/Light.


Tutorial 3

In tutorial 3 - we use the signal acquired from tutorial 2, and transmit the signal to the fan/light to turn the light on and off.


Tutorial 4

In tutorial 4 - we use the information gathered in the first 3 tutorials and do away with the need for a computer. We will listen for a signal, store the signal, and then play it back by pressing a button. Similar to a universal remote ! No libraries, no sound cards, no computer. Just record signal and play it back. Awesome !!


 
 



If you like this page, please do me a favour and show your appreciation :

  Visit my ArduinoBasics Google + page.
Follow me on Twitter by looking for ScottC @ArduinoBasics.
Have a look at my videos on my YouTube channel.


 
 

 
 
 



However, if you do not have a google profile...
Feel free to share this page with your friends in any way you see fit.

© Copyright by ScottC
ScottC 23 Jun 05:47
433mhz  arduino  arduinobasics  best arduino blog  communication  project  rf  serial  tutorial  

433 MHz RF module with Arduino Tutorial 1


There are 4 parts to this tutorial:
To get the most out of this tutorial - it is best to start at tutorial Part 1, and then progress to Part 2 then Part 3 and then do Part 4 last. Doing the RF tutorials in this order will help you to understand the process better.


If you are looking for a way to communicate between Arduinos, but don't have much cash at your disposal, then look no further. These RF modules are not only affordable, but easy to use. They are much easier to set up than an XBee, plus you can use them without the need of a special shield. Before you rush out and buy a ton of these modules, make sure that you are not breaking any radio transmission laws in your country. Do your research, and buy them only if you are allowed to use them in your area. There are a few [OPTIONAL] libraries that can be used to help you and your particular project.


I will mention at this point however, that I did NOT use any libraries in this particular tutorial. That's right. I will show how easy it is to transmit data from one arduino to another using these RF modules WITHOUT libraries.

Also if you are looking for an easy way to record the signals and play them back without a computer - then jump to this tutorial.

Video





Project 1- RF Blink


Firstly we need to test if the RF modules are working. So we will design a very simple transmit and receive sketch to test their functionality. We will use the Arduino's onboard LED to show when the transmitter is transmitting, and when the other Arduino is receiving. There will be a slight delay between the two Arduinos. You can solder an antenna onto these modules, however I did not do this, I just kept the modules close together (1-2cm apart). I also found that I was getting better accuracy when I used 3V instead of 5V to power the receiver. While using 5V for VCC on the receiver, I would get a lot of interference, however with 3V, I hardly got any noise. If you find you are getting unpredictable results, I would suggest you switch to 3V on the receiver and move the transmitter and receiver modules right next to each other. Remember this is just a check... you can experiment with an antenna or a greater distance afterwards.

Here are the parts that you will need to carry out this project:
 

Parts Required



 

The Transmitter and Receiver Fritzing Sketch






The Transmitter

The transmitter has 3 pins




 Notice the pin called "ATAD". It took me a while to figure out what ATAD stood for, when I suddenly realised that this was just a word reversed. It should be DATA (not ATAD). Nevertheless, this is the pin responsible for transmitting the signal. We will make the Arduino's onboard LED illuminate when the transmitter pin is HIGH, and go off when LOW as described in the following table.

 
 



And this is the Arduino Sketch to carry out the data transmission.




Arduino sketch - Transmitter





 

The Receiver



If all goes to plan, the onboard LED on this Arduino should light up (and go off) at the same time as the onboard LED on the transmitting Arduino. There is a chance that the receiver may pick up stray signals from other transmitting devices using that specific frequency. So you may need to play around with the threshold value to eliminate the "noise". But don't make it too big, or you will eliminate the signal in this experiment. You will also notice a small delay between the two Arduinos.


 

Arduino sketch - Receiver




When a HIGH signal is transmitted to the other Arduino. It will produce an AnalogRead = 0.
When a LOW signal is transmitted, it will produce an AnalogRead = 400.
This may vary depending on on your module, and voltage used.
The signals received can be viewed using the Serial Monitor, and can be copied into a spreadsheet to create a chart like this:




You will notice that the HIGH signal (H) is constant, whereas the LOW signal (L) is getting smaller with each cycle. I am not sure why the HIGH signal produces a Analog reading of "0". I would have thought it would have been the other way around. But you can see from the results that a HIGH signal produces a 0 result and a LOW signal produces a value of 400 (roughly).





Tutorial 2

In tutorial 2, we will receive and display a signal from a Mercator RF Remote Controller for Fan/Light.


Tutorial 3

In tutorial 3 - we use the signal acquired from tutorial 2, and transmit the signal to the fan/light to turn the light on and off.


Tutorial 4

In tutorial 4 - we use the information gathered in the first 3 tutorials and do away with the need for a computer. We will listen for a signal, store the signal, and then play it back by pressing a button. Similar to a universal remote ! No libraries, no sound cards, no computer. Just record signal and play it back. Awesome !!


 
 



If you like this page, please do me a favour and show your appreciation :

  Visit my ArduinoBasics Google + page.
Follow me on Twitter by looking for ScottC @ArduinoBasics.
Have a look at my videos on my YouTube channel.


 
 

 
 
 


However, if you do not have a google profile...
Feel free to share this page with your friends in any way you see fit.




© Copyright by ScottC
ScottC 23 Jun 05:47
433mhz  arduino  arduinobasics  best arduino blog  communication  project  rf  serial  tutorial  

Arduino Workshop – A Hands-On Introduction with 65 Projects

Over the last few years you may have noticed a few of my Arduino tutorials, and during this time many people have mentioned that I should write a book. And now thanks to the team from No Starch Press this recommendation has morphed into my first book – “Arduino Workshop“:

Now into the fourth print run, “Arduino Workshop” is one of the few books on the market that can take the reader from zero knowledge to understanding the Arduino development platform, and working with a huge array of add-ons and technologies. You don’t need to buy any other preliminary book – this starts from the absolute beginning. And a huge “thank you” to all those who have purchased and supported the book so far – and it’s now available in Traditional Chinese, Korean, German and Polish.

“Arduino Workshop” offers a professionally edited and curated path for the beginner to learn with and have fun. It’s a hands-on introduction to Arduino with 65 projects – from simple LED use right through to RFID, Internet connection, wireless data, working with cellular communications, and much more. Plus the reader also learns about electronics, good coding and other interesting topics.

Each project is explained in detail, explaining how the hardware and Arduino code works together. Plus we teach you how to read and understand circuit schematics and use this clear method of describing circuits which prepares the read for further electronics learning.

The reader doesn’t need any expensive tools or workspaces, and all the parts used are available from almost any electronics retailer. Furthermore all of the projects can be finished without soldering, so it’s safe for readers of all ages.

The editing team at No Starch Press, our technical editor Marc Alexander and myself have worked hard to make the book perfect for those without any electronics or Arduino experience at all, and it makes a great gift for someone to get them started. After working through the 65 projects the reader will have gained enough knowledge and confidence to create many things – and to continue researching on their own.

Or if you’ve been enjoying the results of my thousands of hours of work here at tronixstuff, you can show your appreciation by ordering a copy for yourself or as a gift. If you’re still not sure, review the table of contents, index and download a sample chapter from the Arduino Workshop website.

Arduino Workshop is available from No Starch Press in printed or DRM-free eBook (PDF, Mobi, and ePub) formats. And the eBooks are also included with the printed orders from No Starch Press so you can get started immediately. 

Autographed copies are available from Tronixlabs. 

Furthermore for readers outside of the United States wishing to save on postage, Arduino Workshop is available from many stores in various countries, for example:

And you can also find Arduino Workshop for sale from all the popular booksellers around the globe such as Amazon, Barnes and Noble, and so on.

Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitter, Google+, subscribe  for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our forum – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other –  and we can all learn something.

The post Arduino Workshop – A Hands-On Introduction with 65 Projects appeared first on tronixstuff.

Tronixstuff 06 May 08:01
arduino  arduino workshop  book  boxall  john  lesson  no  press  starch  tutorial  workshop