My inventory of "old" 3216 3mm displays from Sure Electronics is now depleted. As everybody already knows by now, Sure redesigned the display to be powered with 12V instead of 5V (plus a few other cosmetic changes). The Wise Clock 4 board cannot be plugged into the new display's connectors anymore, since they are now different (10 pins instead of 16), and the assignment of signals to pins has changed as well.

Making a seamless Wise Clock 4 with the new display is still possible, with a little more soldering work. The board will be connected to the display using the ribbon cable provided. To do this, cut one connector off the ribbon cable, then solder 5 wires (4 signal + ground) from the cut end of the ribbon in the place of the header, as shown in the photo below.


The 5V power line from the clock's board (red wire in the photo) will be soldered separately from the ribbon cable, bypassing the display's 5V regulator, as shown in the next photo.


The new display is "top heavy", that is, it has the connectors and the 5V regulator (with large capacitors and inductors) at the top. These may interfere with the clock's buttons and the SD card. To avoid touching them accidentally, it is a better idea to position the display upside down, as shown in the next photo.


For this reason, the sketch needs a little tweaking: all pixel-related functions in HT1632.cpp file will have to change the coordinates, like this:

void ht1632_plot (coord_t x, int8_t y, byte color)
{
#ifdef WANT_UPSIDE_DOWN
  x = X_MAX-1 - x;
  y = Y_MAX-1 - y;
#endif

The macro WANT_UPSIDE_DOWN is defined in UserConf.h.

Also notice that the Wise Clock 4 board is now mechanically  fixed to the back panel (because it's not plugged in the display's connectors anymore).

I will continue to provide a "complete kit" that includes the new display, the 2 plates, and the screws + standoffs. The back plate won't have the 2 holes (for the board) drilled though. This complete kit may not even have the two 2x8 female headers (since they are not needed, and will even be detrimental). In case the headers are in the kit, DO NOT SOLDER THEM if you use the new display.
The processor in the "complete kit" will be loaded with the sketch for the new display, with the software modification mentioned above.

John, aka broHogan, the creator of DIYGeigerKit, skillfully built a nice enclosure for his Wise Clock 4, a potential inspiration to others. From his email:

The case is made from Cocobolo (rosewood) from a slab I bought in Costa Rica. The splines are ebony. In about a year it will turn a nice deep red.


It's really not this brown,

more like this.
Buttons also cocobolo. Holes drilled in the ends go over pushbuttons.

Some time ago I received, as a gift, this smart and very useful stand from fellow clock enthusiast Nicholas in San Diego. He designed it and made it specifically for ClockTHREE. Simple yet elegant, this is essential if you want your C3 on the desk or table.















I did not have the chance to appreciate it until now, with an older ClockTHREE borrowed from a friend (I gave it to him as a gift). Here is the C3 on the stand, a perfect fit!


















Thank you Nicholas! Keep up the great work!

Some time ago I received, as a gift, this smart and very useful stand from fellow clock enthusiast Nicholas in San Diego. He designed it and made it specifically for ClockTHREE. Simple yet elegant, this is essential if you want your C3 on the desk or table.















I did not have the chance to appreciate it until now, with an older ClockTHREE borrowed from a friend (I gave it to him as a gift). Here is the C3 on the stand, a perfect fit!


















Thank you Nicholas! Keep up the great work!

This chronometer, inspired by the Doomsday clock by Wyolum, is made with a Wise Clock 4 board (available for sale here) and two 3216 displays from Sure Electronics.



Its main feature is the odometer-style rolling of the digits when they change.
The time is updated once a second, based on the 1Hz interrupt signal from DS3231, as described here.



















As shown in the video, one button is used to change the display brightness, another button is used for changing the font, and the third is used for switching between rolling style and static style.

By using the bigger (5mm) 3216 displays with the same setup and software, this clock can be easily read from a distance of at least 100 feet (30 meters).

This chronometer, inspired by the Doomsday clock by Wyolum, is made with a Wise Clock 4 board (available for sale here) and two 3216 displays from Sure Electronics.



Its main feature is the odometer-style rolling of the digits when they change.
The time is updated once a second, based on the 1Hz interrupt signal from DS3231, as described here.



















As shown in the video, one button is used to change the display brightness, another button is used for changing the font, and the third is used for switching between rolling style and static style.

By using the bigger (5mm) 3216 displays with the same setup and software, this clock can be easily read from a distance of at least 100 feet (30 meters).

Source code is available here. The current version does not allow setting up the time and date from buttons.

Using two 3216 displays together is an almost trivial hack. I wanted to make sure it works fine with the Wise Clock 4 board. The video below shows the new board running both "Night and Day" and "Wise Clock 3" (merged into one sketch, of course).




In practice, one can now build the "Dual Screen Wise Clock 4" with the two displays placed on opposite sides (back to back), or one next to the other (as shown in the video). A crazy idea would be to have 4 displays placed in a square :)