[Kirk Kaiser] isn’t afraid to admit his latest project a bit strange, being a plant-controlled set of robotic bongos. We don’t find it odd at all.  This is the kind of thing we love to see. His project’s origins began a month ago after taking a class at NYC Resistor about creating music from robotic instruments. Inspired to make his own, [Kirk] repurposed a neighbor’s old wooden dish rack to serve as a mount for solenoids that, when triggered, strike a couple of plastic cowbells or bongo drums.

A Raspberry Pi was originally used to interface the solenoids with a computer or MIDI keyboard, but after frying it, he went with a Teensy LC instead and never looked back. Taking advantage of the Teensy’s MIDI features, [Kirk] programmed a specific note to trigger each solenoid. When he realized that the Teensy also had capacitive touch sensors, he decided to get his plants in on the fun in a MaKey MaKey kind of way. Each plant is connected to the Teensy’s touchRead pins by stranded wire; the other end is stripped, covered with copper tape, and placed into the soil. When a plant’s capacitance surpasses a threshold, the respective MIDI note – and solenoid – is triggered. [Kirk] quickly discovered that hard-coding threshold values was not the best idea. Looking for large changes was a better method, as the capacitance was dramatically affected when the plant’s soil dried up. As [Kirk] stood back and admired his work, he realized there was one thing missing – lights! He hooked up an Arduino with a DMX shield and some LEDs that light up whenever a plant is touched.

We do feel a disclaimer is at hand for anyone interested in using this botanical technique: thorny varieties are ill-advised, unless you want to play a prank and make a cactus the only way to turn the bongos off!

There's an outlet in there, but a simple solution won't do: I have more circuitry and time on my hands than I can handle, and the least I can do is make an over-complicated pantry light.

Parts lying around to use:

• AC-DC converter blocks with screw-terminals outputting 12V at 2A. I have a bunch of these-- came with the LED strips.
• A length of white LED strip.
• Lots of TIP-120-style MOSFETs, intended for a second light suit. It's fun to have a lot of high power switches around.
• Spare Arduino-compatible boards, including the "StripDuino" by "Tinkeract.com," here I quote the names since links go nowhere.

This design solves the problem uniquely with:

1. Very large switch surface,
2. Variable brightness by holding the switch,
3. Indirect lighting from compact, dense LED strip tucked out of view.

• Capacitive touch sensing works between pins D5 and D6 with a 1M resistor
• Touch surface works: aluminum foil with soldered wire plus a layer of hot glue and tape.
• PWM works with the MOSFET to control the LED strip nicely, with the board's 3.3V logic.

To do:

1. Capture the working circuit in an Eagle schematic.
2. Build a looping sketch with the tap/hold fading behavior.

It’s obvious this bike has some extra parts. But look closely and you’ll see the chainring has no chain connecting to it. Pedaling will get you nowhere since [PJ Allen] rerouted the chain in order to drive this bicycle using an electric motor.

He’s got beefy motor which pulls 350 Watts at 24 Volts. For speed control he opted to use an Arduino, pumping out PWM signals to some MOSFETs. This results in an incredibly noisy setup, as you can hear in the bench test video after the break. But once this is installed on the bike it doesn’t quiet down at all. You can hear the thing a block away.

The original road test fried the first set of 7A MOSFETs when trying to start the motor from a standstill. It sounds like the 40A replacements he chose did the trick through. We didn’t see any information on the battery life, but if he runs out of juice on the other side of town we bet he’ll be wishing he had left the chain connected to the crankset.