We bring the connections of the STEMMA QT/Qwiic connector available on the Arduino UNO R4 WiFi to the outside, using a board that can host I²C-Bus devices and can be daisy-chained with others of the same type.

Among the new features introduced by the Arduino UNO R4, the WiFi version stands out with a small interface connector called STEMMA QT/Qwiic. For form-factor compatibility reasons, this connection did not find a place in the traditional headers compatible with UNO boards, but it is located on the left side of the ICSP.

The connector makes an I²C-Bus accessible according to the pinout shown in Fig. 1, which can be used to manage external devices such as displays, sensors, etc., as long as they support I²C communication.

The SCL and SDA lines, unlike what happens in previous Arduino boards based on Atmel processors (where they were shared with pins A4 and A5 of the standard Arduino header), are connected to a second (secondary) I²C bus. In fact, the Renesas chip used in the R4 makes two distinct I²C buses available. The second one must be managed, however, by calling the specific object Wire1, as will be explained later in this article. The connection was introduced in the Arduino R4 (only in the WiFi version) to quickly connect Sparkfun standard breakout boards to it, since the connector used, a 4-pin single-in-line PCB connector, is the one adopted by Sparkfun boards. Qwiic is an ecosystem of breakout modules and development boards equipped with a so-called Qwiic connector, and it combines the flexibility of I²C with the ease of use of ready-made compatible cables available on the market, making it simple to manage a chain of I²C-Bus devices through a single cable. In practice, this means that wiring Qwiic devices is as simple as connecting them in series, and that’s it. To facilitate the connection and provide physical support for the breakout boards, instead of leaving them “flying,” we thought of designing and proposing a small adapter board that has two connectors compatible with the STEMMA QT/Qwiic standard, creating a pass-through connection that allows interfacing devices on the board itself, but also using the I²C bus to connect other devices. The I²C-Bus connections are distributed on our board in rows of pads where you can insert strips to connect and mechanically support breakout boards. Everything will be clearer by analyzing the project’s electrical schematic, which you can find on this page.

Electrical schematic

As you can see, it is something very simple, which in fact has no electronics but simply creates a series of electrical interconnections, making a pass-through I²C-Bus connection between input and output through the two 4-pin Sparkfun-type connectors, and which has four rows of four pads at 2.54 mm pitch, ready for soldering female strips or pin strips for sensors and various devices. Note that the layout on the printed circuit board provides that the rows of pads have contacts arranged differently from one side to the opposite one: we wanted this to allow mounting boards and especially displays (since the problem occurs, for example, with small OLEDs) that have a different arrangement of Vcc and GND, as well as SDA and SCL. Through the STEMMA QT/Qwiic connector, the power needed for the breakout boards to operate is taken from the Arduino UNO R4 board, thus achieving independent operation of the devices connected to Arduino. As you can see, the circuit is essential and basically only serves to carry connections. The nice thing is that having two JST connectors makes it possible to daisy-chain numerous I²C-Bus interface devices on multiple boards, since the one connected to the Arduino R4 can in turn be connected to a second board, the latter to a third, and so on, to host more elements. For the interconnection between the Arduino R4 and our board, and between multiple adapter boards, you can use a pre-wired cable with a 4-pin JST connector at each end, 1 mm pitch, available at Futura Elettronica. The adapter board we propose here can also be purchased ready-made from [Futura Elettronica](www.futurashop.it) with product code FT1732M.

Construction and use

The small adapter board described here can be easily prepared by photoengraving once you have the two copper-side traces, however, given its really low cost, it is possible and convenient to buy it ready-made. To explain how to use it, we propose a basic application that involves acquiring information from a breakout board for barometric pressure and ambient temperature sensors, then displaying it on a small 0.96″ monochrome OLED display based on the SSD1306 controller; clearly, we are referring to two devices equipped with an I²C-Bus interface. The Arduino R4 WiFi connector to use is the one detailed in Fig. 2. To use a Bosch BME280 sensor on a breakout board with the Arduino R4 and the STEMMA standard, you must mount the small breakout board using the appropriate pin strips and following the intended orientation (Fig. 3 can help you, where you can also see in which position to mount it); be careful that if you do not respect the indicated position and orientation, the small board can be irreparably damaged.

This is because, as mentioned, the rows of I²C-Bus pads inside the printed circuit board are arranged differently depending on which side they are on, to allow mounting all breakout boards available on the market, equipped with 2.54 mm pitch strip connections. On a second FT1732M adapter board, you must mount the small OLED display, which is a standard type and, more precisely, the one sold by Futura Elettronica with the code OLEDGVSCSD; the device must be applied as shown in Fig. 4 after soldering a 4-pin pin-strip to it and using the row of pads whose contacts are arranged as follows: GND, VCC, SCL, SDA.

To implement communication with the BME280 breakout, you must first load the Adafruit_BME280 library into the Arduino IDE; to do this, open the IDE, go to the Sketch menu, and issue the Include Library > Manage Libraries… command. At this point, search for “Adafruit BME280” in the search bar and install the corresponding library. Installation can also be done from a .zip file containing the library, using the appropriate menu command. Then, from the File menu, you can issue the Examples command and load the “BME280_I2C” example; once the sketch is displayed, load it onto the board (the IDE must already have the UNO R4 WiFi among the boards available in the Tools > Board… submenu) and run it, opening the Serial Monitor to view the pressure and temperature data read by the sensor. Note that the Arduino UNO R4 WiFi has two I²C buses and that the Qwiic connector is connected to the secondary one, so you must use Wire1. In most cases, you will be able to select the Wire1 object during library initialization with this code snippet:

Wire1.begin();
libraryName.begin( Wire1 );

Our test sketch

To test the adapter board and the STEMMA Qwiic connection, we wrote for you the simple sketch proposed in Listing 1, which, in association with the breakout board based on BME280 and the OLED display, implements an essential weather station capable of displaying atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature.

To work, the sketch includes the Wire.h, Adafruit Sensor.h, BME280.h, GFX.h, and SSD1306.h libraries, as well as ArduinoGraphics.h and Arduino_LED_Matrix.h to manage the display; in particular, SSD1306.h handles the controller integrated into the OLED display module. In the Setup, the Serial Monitor is initialized for communication at 115200 baud, and then commands are issued to use Wire1, with the instructions:

// Qwiic
Wire1.begin();
Wire1.setClock(100000);
Wire1.setTimeout(1000);

that will be used to make the Arduino UNO R4 communicate with the display and the BPM280 sensor through the Qwiic / STEMMA interface. Once this is done, the I²C-Bus OLED display and the sensor are initialized, then you start acquiring samples of the quantities detected by the latter, sending the result to the display at the corresponding I²C-Bus address. These two operations are repeated in a loop, with a delay time of 20 ms. Note that using the I²C-Bus implies defining the address of the two peripherals in the firmware; in this regard, it should be said that the BME280 breakout typically has address 0x76, which is the default in our sketch; if the query fails and no data appears on the display, it is advisable to change the I²C address in the following line of code:

uint8_t BME_ADDR = 0x76;

replacing 0x76 with 0x77, because breakouts with this preset address also exist. As for the OLED display used in this example, it has an I²C-Bus address of 0x3C, which is fixed and does not vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, because it is defined in the controller chip.

Conclusions

Well, with this we have finished and we leave you to your practical experiments with the Arduino UNO R4 and its Qwiic connection. The application proposed here is one of the many examples of use and employs one board for each I²C-Bus device; however, each one can host, depending on size, multiple breakouts, and remember that the STEMMA/Qwiic connector also supports more than two adapter boards, depending on the current that can be supplied to the bus.

The post Arduino UNO R4 WiFi: A Guide to Sensors and Displays appeared first on Open Electronics.

Home automation is a popular project to undertake but its complexity can quickly become daunting, especially if you go further than controlling a few lights (or if you’re a renter). To test the waters you may want to start with something like this home safety monitor, which is an IoT device based on an Arduino. It allows remote monitoring of a home for things such as temperature, toxic gasses, light, and other variables, which is valuable even if you don’t need or want to control anything.

The device is built around an Arduino Nano 33 IOT which has WiFi and Bluetooth capabilities as well as some integrated security features. This build features a number of sensors including pressure/humidity, a gas/smoke detector, and a light sensor. To report all of the information it gathers around the home, an interface with Ubidots is configured to allow easy (and secure) access to the data gathered by the device.

The PCB and code for the project are all provided on the project page, and there are a number of other options available if Ubidots isn’t your preferred method of interfacing with the Internet of Things. You might even give Mozilla’s WebThings a shot if you’re so inclined.

If you want a red piece of paper, or a blue pen, what does that really mean? If you’d like to get more specific, Michael Klements’ Arduino-based scanner lets you quantify colors in numerical RGB values via a TCS34725 sensor.

User interface for the handheld device is extremely simple, with a single button to trigger the sensor and measure colors, along with a 16×2 panel. An optional RGB LED attempts to copy the shade of whatever object you’re aiming at, providing a handy reference to verify it’s working correctly. 

You can see the build process in the video below, first constructed on a breadboard and then placed in a more permanent soldered configuration with a 3D-printed case.

What really happens when you open the refrigerator door? Sure, you know intuitively that cold air escapes, but just how much? And how fast does the food inside actually heat up? To find out, Ryan Bates came up with his own data logging setup using an Arduino Uno, a custom sensor shield, and a microSD card reader.

His device uses a photoresistor to tell when the door has been opened, as well as a DHT22 temperature/humidity sensor to log the air temperature and door status. Along with this, TMP36 sensors are placed around the fridge to get a more granular look at temperatures, including one attached to a pickle jar. 

The results seen in the video below are quite interesting, and more information on the build can be found here if you’d like to try something similar.

Instead of controlling his temperature and humidity display directly, maker Zaphunk did things a bit differently, driving the temperature of each segment with a Peltier element, or thermo-electric cooler (TEC), to change its color. 

Each segment is made out of a thermochromic material, cycling from a black off state to a greenish hue when on, for a device that can—somewhat ironically—show the temperature by changing its temperature.

Ambient conditions are read via a DHT22 sensor, and everything is controlled by a half-dozen Arduino Nanos. This number boards were needed in order to power the nine dual motor drivers that handle the Peltier elements, each of which require two PWM outputs, along with 5 IO pins. 

The display looks great in the video below and Arduino code is found on GitHub.

After obtaining an industrial distance sensor, TUENHIDIY decided to use it as the basis for an interesting visual indicator.

The device communicates with an Arduino Uno via an RS-485 module, and outputs distance values in the form of a 9 x 14 pixel display made out of discreet LEDs soldered onto an LoL Shield.

As shown in the video be low, it does a good job of sensing how far an object is from it on a table, and the 126 LEDs provide a nice brilliant display. 

Code for the build can be found on GitHub if you’d like to make something similar. Seeing as though the sensor used here will set you back close to $1,000, you may want to also consider alternatives like an HC-SR04 ultrasonic module instead! 

Sensor network projects often focus primarily on electronic design elements, such as architecture and wireless transmission methods for sensors and gateways. Equally important, however, are physical and practical design elements such as installation, usability, and maintainability. The SENSEation project by [Mario Frei] is a sensor network intended for use indoors in a variety of buildings, and it showcases the deep importance of physical design elements in order to create hardware that is easy to install, easy to maintain, and effective. The project logs have an excellent overview of past versions and an analysis of what worked well, and where they fell short.

One example is the power supply for the sensor nodes. Past designs used wall adapters to provide constant and reliable power, but there are practical considerations around doing so. Not only do power adapters mean each sensor requires some amount of cable management, but one never really knows what one will find when installing a node somewhere in a building; a power outlet may not be nearby, or it may not have any unoccupied sockets. [Mario] found that installations could take up to 45 minutes per node as a result of these issues. The solution was to move to battery power for the sensor nodes. With careful power management, a node can operate for almost a year before needing a recharge, and removing any cable management or power adapter meant that installation time dropped to an average of only seven minutes.

That’s just one example of the practical issues discovered in the deployment of a sensor network in a real-world situation, and the positive impact of some thoughtful design changes in response. The GitHub repository for SENSEation has all the details needed to reproduce the modular design, so check it out.

Housing exotic plants or animals offer a great opportunity to get into the world of electronic automation. When temperature, light, and humidity ranges are crucial, sensors are your best friend. And if woodworking and other types of crafts are your thing on top, why not build it all from scratch. [MagicManu] did so with his Jurassic Park themed octagonal dome built from MDF and transparent polystyrene.

With the intention to house some exotic plants of his own, [MagicManu] equipped the dome with an Arduino powered control system that regulates the temperature and light, and displays the current sensor states on a LCD, including the humidity. For reasons of simplicity regarding wiring and isolation, the humidity itself is not automated for the time being. A fan salvaged from an old PC power supply provides proper ventilation, and in case the temperature inside the dome ever gets too high, a servo controlled set of doors that match the Jurassic Park theme, will automatically open up.

[MagicManu] documented the whole build process in a video, which you can watch after the break — in French only though. We’ve seen a similar DIY indoor gardening project earlier this year, and considering its simple yet practical application to learn about sensors, plus a growing interest in indoor gardening itself (pun fully intended), this certainly won’t be the last one.

It seems like no one should need to be reminded about the importance of not leaving children in cars, but it still happens. The Fochica project is a Hackaday Prize entry that equips the family minivan with car seat monitors—the name comes from FOrgotten CHild in Car Alert.

It’s an Open Source project consisting of a Bluetooth LE-equipped Arduino that monitors whether the seat is empty or occupied. Paired with a phone app, Fochica monitors pressure sensors and the seat belt’s reed switch to determine whether there’s a kid there. The user’s app checks whether he or she is within Bluetooth range of the car, while also checking whether the kid’s seat is occupied. When the first comes up false and the second true, an alert is sounded.

We could see this technology also being useful for home automation tasks–for instance, reminding you to close the garage door before you go to bed. It’s a great project, and also one of the finalists in the Best Product challenge of the Hackaday Prize this year.

It seems like no one should need to be reminded about the importance of not leaving children in cars, but it still happens. The Fochica project is a Hackaday Prize entry that equips the family minivan with car seat monitors—the name comes from FOrgotten CHild in Car Alert.

It’s an Open Source project consisting of a Bluetooth LE-equipped Arduino that monitors whether the seat is empty or occupied. Paired with a phone app, Fochica monitors pressure sensors and the seat belt’s reed switch to determine whether there’s a kid there. The user’s app checks whether he or she is within Bluetooth range of the car, while also checking whether the kid’s seat is occupied. When the first comes up false and the second true, an alert is sounded.

We could see this technology also being useful for home automation tasks–for instance, reminding you to close the garage door before you go to bed. It’s a great project, and also one of the finalists in the Best Product challenge of the Hackaday Prize this year.